Aerial view of Ometeppe

I arrived on Ometeppe Island a few weeks ago with the primary  goal of climbing Concepcion volcano.   This stable yet not extinct volcano (there is still some gases like sulfur released and warnings of possible eruptions have occurred in the last few decades) is accessible to climb.  After many hiking problems and even some recent deaths, a guide is required to climb to the crater.   The volcano stands at about a 5000 foot elevation.

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

The Resplendent Quetzel (the Guatamalan national bird) is an ever-increasing rare sight in the wild.  However, throughout my travels in central America, I have discovered that it is not in Guatamala where this bird may best be spotted, but rather  in Panama.  

A short flight from Panama City westward took us to the city of David.   From there, we headed north to the coffee-growing district of Boquete and  into the interior of the country.  We rented a car, but did hire a local guide for a day or so to show us the best places/hikes in the area to see the quetzel.    

Many trails in the area are in disrepair and can pose some danger as ‘bridges’ are washed away and some trails are poorly groomed.  The tourist bureau in Boquete can provide a map of the local trails, but while the people there are friendly, they clearly have not walked these trails recently as many are essentially impassable.  For example, the most famous trail in the area called Sendero Los Quetzales, is now officially closed after a recent guide drowned while hiking the trail.  Park rangers on the Boquete side will prevent you from entering the trail.  From the Cerro Punto side, you can access the entrance, and when I was there, there was no official at the entrance, so you could walk around the ‘closed’ sign and enter the trail.  Naturally, it would be foolish to begin the hike with expectation to complete it on the Boquete side – the trail is CLOSED.  I simply hiked down into the first valley and returned the way I came.  Reports are that the government will spend the next 6 months repairing the trail (though the Sendero Los Quetzales trail has been in disrepair for many years and has posed significant hiking challenges prior to this most recent death).  In the future, you will need to speak to local guides to see if the trail is open before heading out to Boquete with the expectation to hike the Sendero.  

The cloud forests around Boquete are beautiful and are a good representation of this type of forest.  As for seeing the resplendent quetzel.  Unfortunately, the bird did not make an appearance despite all the hours of hiking in and around the area.  I was told that they were late flying over the Continental Divide this year as it had been particularly cool and wet and their food source was not yet ripe.  However, this disappointment simply provides another opportunity to return to this remarkable area. 

Email at dkoop@mdtravelsecure.com                                                                                                                               

              

orchids along the trail

  

  

The Pantanal was phenomenal as usual.  We saw numerous bird species, hundreds of caiman, capybara, and 2 incredible jaguar.  

 From the remote wilderness of the Pantanal, we arrived in Rio de Janeiro to enjoy a couple days in this exciting city.  

The trip ended with a visit to the Argentinian border to view the spectacular Iguazu falls.   

Traveling in Brazil, even with some health issues, is not difficult.  With a little planning and a knowledge of the areas where you want to visit, accomplishing your travel goals is possible.  This is a great time of year to go to Brazil.  The weather is more moderate (low 80′s F / high 20s C)  for the most part.  Dry in the Pantanal to expose sand banks and bars along the rivers – best to see jaguar.  Few mosquitos with little to no risk of mosquito-borne diseases.   

A most memorable trip.  

Contact me for further information at:  

dkoop@mdtravelsecure.com    

Sunrise in the Pantanal

Christ the Redeemer, Rio de Janeiro

 

Dunes and lagoons, Lencois Maranhenses

 

India is a modernizing country, but much of its infrastructure is insufficient to handle the country’s ever-increasing demand on safe and efficient transportation.  In the United States,  the department of transportation (USDOT) recently reported that 33,963 people were killed on American highways in 2009 (an 8.9% drop from 2008 where 37,261 lives were claimed).  The 2009 number represents a low of 1.16 deaths per 100 million vehicle miles travelled (100m VMT).  This is a measure not yet reported in India.  Instead, the tranportation ministry has reported that in 2008, 118,239 people died on Indian roads.  As a rate, it represents 1.3 deaths per 1000 vehicles.

India has some of the most dangerous roads in the world.  Deaths per 1000 vehicles are highest in Arunachal Pradesh, Sikkim, Bihar, and Himachal Pradesh.  Lowest in the Punjab, Goa, Nagaland, and Gujarat.  The highest rates of deaths per number of MVAs are found in Nagaland, Mizoram, and Punjab (lowest in Goa and Kerala).   As a traveler in India it is important to note that 12,551 people were killed in bus accidents in 2008, 23,552 on motorcycles, and there were 10,324 pedestrian deaths.

So what can a traveller do to minimize the risk?

Well, firstly, recognize that travel is a risk plain and simple.  Having said that, there are ways to minimize that risk.   Hiring a driver for a few hours to weeks at a time is a common practice in India.  So, choose wisely.  Check references and safety records.   What type of car and its condition will you be riding in?   Expect seatbelts, but don’t plan on airbags.  Given Indian road conditions (particularly in rural regions), expect to cover about 50km (30 miles) in an hour.  Let your driver know if you’re uncomfortable with his driving.  Afterall, he is working for you.  But also understand, he does this for a living and you are a passive witness to the mayhem outside your window and don’t have the experience of dodging all those obstacles.  Try to avoid driving at night.  A good driver will calculate the distances and make sure that he is off the road by sunset.   Be flexible, give your driver the freedom to stop for a break at his convenience – keep a book/camera close to fill those times.  

I trusted my excellent and safe northern Indian experience with Pawan and Shyam.  Their services can be reviewed at www.driverindiatour.com or www.mytourpackages.com and they may be contacted at sharma_rocket@yahoo.co.in and shyam_india007@yahoo.com

sunset from structure 216 at Yahxa

The Mayan civilization spread across what is now known as southern Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, and parts of El Salvador. It’s city states waxed and waned in power from 500BC to 1500AD (dates generally accepted by archeologists today). This magnificent civilization built cities from the arid Yucatan to the humid jungles of the Peten. Some sites have been well studied, others have as yet to be discovered. Should you want to explore these ancient ruins, you will need to be physically prepared.

While you are still at home and are planning for your trip, you need to begin exercising, focusing on cardiovascular activities. These activities should begin with a medical check up if you haven’t had one recently and you have heart or lung problems. Then, if you smoke, stop! As we ascend to higher altitudes, the air carries less and less oxygen. Smokers normally have less oxygen carrying capacity in their blood because more of their hemoglobin is bound to carbon monoxide and therefore is not available to oxygen. Trust me, you will need every available hemoglobin molecule to bind the scant oxygen up in the Andes. Begin your training with walking an incline and then advance to steps. If you have stadium seating near where you live, walk, then try jogging up these steps. This will be terrific training for your hike. Don’t worry too much about strength training, sherpas carry most of the heavy stuff up the mountains. You are responsible for your own personal belongings, like your sleeping bag, toiletries, clothes, cameras, and any personal food items.

Accessible medical help, apart from a first aid kit, is not available along the trail. But this does not mean that individuals or groups with special medical considerations could not accomplish this hike. Options include lengthening the normal 4 day hike, carrying oxygen supplementation, and daily medical evaluations. The latter service can be achieved by having a trained medical professional accompanying the group to enhance medical security while you climb. Adventure travelers often find ‘peace of mind’ when traveling with a doctor who has experience in acute care medicine and adventure travel as he or she is able to anticipate and then act on potential medical problems that can suddenly arise during the trip.